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Gateway District (“Skid Row”), Minneapolis

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Street view of Washington Avenue

Street view of Washington Avenue, Minneapolis, 1960s. Pictured are the Beacon Hotel (40 Washington Avenue South), the Gay Nineties Tavern, and the Body Loan Office (42 Washington Avenue South).

The Gateway District was Minneapolis’s original downtown, where life revolved around mills and railroads. As aging buildings became boarding houses for the thousands of temporary workers who spent their off-seasons in Minneapolis, the neighborhood gained a seedy reputation and the nickname “Skid Row.” The twenty-five-block zone was targeted for decades by mission workers, city planners, and police as a hub of vice and firetrap buildings, but the redevelopment of the area failed to mitigate its decline after World War II.

Minneapolis’s transition from town to city was fueled by the Mississippi River and seasonal workers. Lumberjacks floated old-growth timber down the river each spring for milling. In the summer and fall, wheat was brought to the city on tracks built and maintained by railroad workers known as “gandy dancers.” When Minneapolis’s downtown shifted away from the river, dozens of offices and homes between First and Fifth Avenues were converted into inexpensive boarding houses for these workers.

Originally known as Bridge Square, the twenty-five-block area was home to hundreds of small business owners, including grocers, lawyers, and barbers. It was better known, however, as one of the only places in Minneapolis to buy a drink legally for decades. Reasoning that law enforcement would be easier and neighborhoods safer if saloons were confined to one district, the city council passed ordinances in 1884 making it difficult to open a saloon anywhere but in the immigrant neighborhoods along the riverside. Ironically, this turned Minneapolis’s old downtown into a de-facto “vice” district—known as “Skid Row” by the 1920s—where seasonal workers and permanent Minneapolitans alike came for liquor, gambling, and prostitution. By 1902, there were more than 100 saloons on Washington Avenue alone.

By World War I, the neighborhood had transformed from a mixed-income community of immigrant families to one of predominantly young and single transient men who defied “Yankee” attitudes for proper living. In the 1910s, city planners attempted to rebrand Skid Row as the “Gateway” to Minneapolis by razing four blocks of lodging, building a Neoclassical-inspired park, and banning women from boarding houses. In hopes of curbing prostitution, churches and women’s groups built hotels and boarding houses for the single women who worked at downtown hospitals, factories, and private homes. In spite of these efforts and Prohibition, the neighborhood remained an inexpensive haven for Midwestern seasonal workers and Minneapolis nightlife.

Industry changes and the Great Depression ended this boom. As mechanization displaced farmhands and railroad workers, forest depletion and chainsaws made many loggers “redundant.” Flour mills moved operations to Buffalo, New York, leaving hundreds of millers out of work.

Faced with greater competition for work during the Depression, many of the same men who had built Minneapolis into a metropolis were now “marooned” on Skid Row. It became a de facto low-income retirement community for pensioners and the chronically unemployed. Better-off Minneapolitans still frequented Skid Row’s bars—the Persian Palms and Great Lakes Bar were especially popular—but warned their children that they would end up “on the skids” if they didn’t stay in school.

In the post-war era, Minneapolis planners and civic organizations grew concerned about declining population growth and property values as white residents and corporate offices moved in droves to the suburbs. Many blamed Skid Row for this shift; most of its residents were unemployed, unmarried, and on public benefits. They made up 44 percent of total arrests in Minneapolis, most for public drunkenness. Most buildings were not up to fire and sanitation code. Establishments like the Persian Palms, Dugout Bar, and Herb’s were refuges for the Twin Cities’ LGBTQ community. Many bars paid corrupt police and aldermen to ignore sex workers, sports betting, and regular closing times. Because of this relative openness to bribery, raids on gay bars were rare in the Gateway District, as in the rest of Minneapolis.

The Federal Highway Act of 1956 gave planners the excuse they had been looking for to deal with Skid Row while luring commuters back to Minneapolis with expressways and parking. The city council unanimously voted in favor of a federally funded plan to completely raze the area, and demolition began in 1958.

The brownstone Metropolitan Building (308 2nd Avenue South) was Minneapolis’s first skyscraper and is considered the greatest architectural loss of the more than 200 structures demolished. The most notable structures to come of the new development were the Northwest National Life and 100 Washington Square office buildings, both designed in the New Formalist style by Minoru Yamasaki. Nevertheless, the Gateway District was denigrated for years as a sea of parking lots and generic government buildings built without much concern for pedestrians.

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© Minnesota Historical Society
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Atkins, Annette. “At Home in the Heart of the City.” Minnesota History 58, nos. 5–6 (Spring/summer 2003): 286–304.
http://collections.mnhs.org/MNHistoryMagazine/articles/58/v58i05-06p286-304.pdf

“Gaming Case Suspect Held.” Minneapolis Morning Tribune, January 26, 1952.

Hart, Joseph. “Room at the Bottom.” City Pages, May 6, 1998.
https://web.archive.org/web/20100312080246/http://www.citypages.com/1998-05-06/news/room-at-the-bottom/8

Hart, Joseph, and Edwin C. Hirschoff. Down & Out: the Life and Death of Minneapolis’s Skid Row. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2002.

Hathaway, James T. The Liquor Patrol Limits of Minneapolis. 1985.

Murphy, Kevin. Queer Twin Cities. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2010.

Nelson, Rick. “They Paved Paradise.” Minneapolis Star Tribune, December 10, 2011.

Shiffer, James Eli. The King of Skid Row: John Bacich and the Twilight Years of Old Minneapolis. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2016.

“Shown No Mercy: Police Arresting Every Drunken Man and Suspicious Person.” Minneapolis Tribune, October 18, 1897.

Wallace, Samuel E. Skid Row as a Way of Life. Totowa, NJ: Bedminster Press, 1965.

Related Images

Street view of Washington Avenue
Street view of Washington Avenue
Street view of Washington Avenue

Street view of Washington Avenue, Minneapolis, 1960s. Pictured are the Beacon Hotel (40 Washington Avenue South), the Gay Nineties Tavern, and the Body Loan Office (42 Washington Avenue South).

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
Bridge Square, 1886
Bridge Square, 1886
Bridge Square, 1886

Front and center is Minneapolis’s old city hall, constructed in 1873 on the narrow lot between Hennepin(right) and Nicollet(left) avenues. The wide open space often served as a farmer’s market.

Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul
Minnesota Historical Society
Laborers standing outside the Employment Bureau, 1908
Laborers standing outside the Employment Bureau, 1908
Laborers standing outside the Employment Bureau, 1908

Laborers standing outside the Employment Bureau in the Minneapolis neighborhood that became known as the Gateway District, 1908. Shown in the window are postings for work as a “steam driller” for $2.50 a day near the city, and a posting for a bridge carpenter position in Missoula. Day laborers came by rail from all over the Midwest to Minneapolis’s “Bridge Square” to find work and blow off steam in saloons. Named for its proximity to the series of bridges over the Mississippi on the current site of Hennepin Avenue, the area was derided as early as the 1880s as a gathering spot for working-class and unemployed men, sex workers, and others deemed “unsavory.”

Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul
Gateway Park, 1927
Gateway Park, 1927
Gateway Park, 1927

The neoclassically-inspired park was Minneapolis’ first attempt to revitalize the old downtown. Two blocks of buildings, including the old city hall and several saloons, were razed to make way for the park in 1915, and the 650-room Nicollet hotel was completed soon afterwards. Photograph by Norton and Peel company.

Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul
Norton and Peel company.
Putting up a Christmas Tree in Gateway Park, 1931.
Putting up a Christmas Tree in Gateway Park, 1931
Putting up a Christmas Tree in Gateway Park, 1931

Men posing near a large Christmas tree to be put up between the fountain and pavilion building in Gateway Park.

Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul
Minnesota Historical Society
Christmas Service at Gateway Gospel Mission, 1940.
Christmas Service at Gateway Gospel Mission, 1940.
Christmas Service at Gateway Gospel Mission, 1940.

Christian missions like Gateway Gospel provided meals and beds to homeless residents of the Gateway district.

Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul
Minnesota Historical Society
Brody Loan Company storefront, 1950s
Brody Loan Company storefront, 1950s
Brody Loan Company storefront, 1950s

The Brody Loan Company at 115 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis, 1950s. Customers could pawn dress clothing and jewelry at the store or use them as collateral for payday loans. Photograph by Dick Palen.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
Unnamed man on the corner of Washington Avenue
Unnamed man on the corner of Washington Avenue
Unnamed man on the corner of Washington Avenue

Unnamed man on the corner of Washington Avenue, 1959.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Bar scene at the Valhalla Café
Bar scene at the Valhalla Café
Bar scene at the Valhalla Café

Bar scene at the Valhalla Café (105 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis) June 15, 1960. On this side of the café, patrons could purchase a shot of warm brandy for thirty-five cents in 1960, fifty cents for a double. Salty diner food promoted strong sales of Hamm’s and Grain Belt beer.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Diner side of Valhalla Café
Diner side of Valhalla Café
Diner side of Valhalla Café

The diner side of the Valhalla Café (105 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis), June 15, 1960. Along with dives, “greasy spoons” serving diner fare like corned beef hash, Salisbury steak, and fruit pie were a Gateway mainstay. When later asked about his living situation, one former Skid-Rower bemoaned the fact that in his new home, he couldn’t find a replacement for his regular diner order: pork chops with apple sauce.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Cars in the parking lot of the Valhalla Café
Cars in the parking lot of the Valhalla Café
Cars in the parking lot of the Valhalla Café

Cars in the parking lot of the Valhalla Café (105 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis) June 15, 1960.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Pioneer Hotel Lobby
Pioneer Hotel Lobby
Pioneer Hotel Lobby

The lobby of the Pioneer Hotel (125 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), August 3, 1960.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Hallway of Pioneer Hotel
Hallway of Pioneer Hotel
Hallway of Pioneer Hotel

A hallway inside the Pioneer Hotel, July 6, 1960. “Cage Hotels” were essentially plywood cubicles with chicken wire covering the tops to prevent would-be thieves. The Pioneer Hotel rented out rooms by the week and month at rates much cheaper than most apartments, albeit with few. While the people who used these boardinghouses were often classified as homeless, many actually lived in the same room for decades. Photograph by Dick Palen.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Lived-in room at the Pioneer Hotel
Lived-in room at the Pioneer Hotel
Lived-in room at the Pioneer Hotel

Lived-in room at the Pioneer Hotel (125 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), August 3, 1960. The Pioneer Hotel rented out rooms by the week, and by the month to seasonal workers and railroad pensioners. Photograph by Dick Palen.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Pioneer Hotel bathroom
Pioneer Hotel bathroom
Pioneer Hotel bathroom

The bathroom of the Pioneer Hotel (125 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), 1960s. Unlike conventional hotels, the Pioneer was closer to a dormitory, with a shared bathroom on each floor. In 1953, there were ten men to every toilet in the Gateway District. Photograph by Dick Palen.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Bottle dump in the basement of the Pioneer Hotel
Bottle dump in the basement of the Pioneer Hotel
Bottle dump in the basement of the Pioneer Hotel

Bottle dump in the basement of the Pioneer Hotel (125 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), August 12, 1960. Because most of the buildings in Gateway were repurposed from large office buildings, many had cavernous brick basements. At the Pioneer Hotel, empty bottles of Hamm’s beer, Gluek’s beer, and Franzia muscatel were dropped down a chute into the basement and disposed of once the chute backed up.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
“Cage Rooms” at the Standard Hotel
“Cage Rooms” at the Standard Hotel
“Cage Rooms” at the Standard Hotel

: “Cage Rooms” at the Standard Hotel (114 Hennepin Avenue South, Minneapolis), June 29, 1960. At the turn of the century, chicken-wire sub-ceilings were a common feature in cheaper boardinghouses in cities with a large temporary workforce. While Minneapolis banned the construction of new “cage hotels” in 1918, many lasted right up to the Gateway’s demolition. Some tenants who were evicted had been in their rooms since the 1920s.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
California Wine Shop interior
California Wine Shop interior
California Wine Shop interior

Interior of the California Wine Shop (29 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis), July 10, 1960. In his documentary of life on Skid Row, the self-proclaimed “King of Skid Row,” John Bachich, recalled that bottles of wine could be bought “corked” or “uncorked” at California Wine Shop, near his own Sourdough Bar. While most of Skid Row’s residents did not have problems with alcohol, a minority were chronic alcoholics who served as frequent fodder for the Minneapolis Tribune’s investigative journalists.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Gutted interior of the Great Lakes Bar
Gutted interior of the Great Lakes Bar
Gutted interior of the Great Lakes Bar

The gutted interior of the Great Lakes Bar (101 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), July 10, 1960.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Interior of the Corner Grocery
Interior of the Corner Grocery
Interior of the Corner Grocery

Interior of the Corner Grocery (129 Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis), August 3, 1860.
Holding location: Hennepin County Library

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Interior of the Stockholm Bar
Interior of the Stockholm Bar
Interior of the Stockholm Bar

Interior of the Stockholm Bar (33–35 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis), 1960.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Coatroom at the Beaufort Hotel
Coatroom at the Beaufort Hotel
Coatroom at the Beaufort Hotel

The coat room in the Beaufort Hotel (112 3rd Street South, Minneapolis), May 5, 1961.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved
Persian Palms Nightclub
Persian Palms Nightclub
Persian Palms Nightclub

The Persian Palms Nightclub (109 Washington Avenue South, Minneapolis), shown here in 1961, was one of the most popular venues in the Gateway District. Skid Row was famous for its bars in the Post-World War II era, but most of its permanent residents could not actually afford to frequent them. Instead, they catered to Minneapolitans, and out-state workers in town with money to burn. The Palms was known for burlesque shows, a backroom which was popular with the Twin Cities’ LGBTQ community, and waitresses who worked with the bouncers to extort the gullible and well-heeled.

Hennepin County Library
Hennepin County Library
All rights reserved

Turning Point

The Minneapolis City Council passes an ordinance in 1884 to limit saloon licenses on the “West Bank” to areas roughly equivalent to the Gateway District and Cedar-Riverside neighborhood, ironically hastening the old downtown’s transition from a mixed-income immigrant family neighborhood into a concentrated hub of flophouses and saloons.

Chronology

1884

Frustrated by the proliferation of saloons—licensed and unlicensed—Minneapolis’s city council passes an ordinance relegating alcohol sales to a corridor along the Mississippi. The number of licensed saloons in the city drops from 523 to 236.

1897

A Minneapolis Tribune article titled “Shown No Mercy” records more than 100 arrests in a week near Bridge Square, writing that the neighborhood was "unsafe for a woman to attempt to cross the bridge on foot.”

1902

There are more than 100 saloons on Washington Avenue alone. Well into the twentieth century, saloons served as informal banks, post offices, and job placement centers for seasonal workers.

1910

More than 40,000 seasonal workers pass through Minneapolis.

1917

Minneapolis Mayor Thomas Van Lear beefs up police “morals squads,” targeting prostitution, unlicensed bars, and gambling.

1918

A city ordinance prohibits the construction of new “cage hotels,” buildings that had been subdivided into plywood rooms just large enough for a bed and dresser, with only chicken wire covering the ceiling to keep would-be thieves out.

1930s

A cigar shop on South Fourth and Hennepin operates as a phone hub for Leo Hirschfield’s “Minneapolis Line,” where “bookies” across America sought spreads and odds. Leo’s business lasted into the sixties; the shop owner was arrested for tax evasion in 1952

1955

The Gateway District is home to eighty wholesaler companies, forty factories, 350 service businesses, and two dozen club headquarters.

Late 1950s

Eccentric bar owner Johnny Rex begins filming the gritty lives of his patrons on Washington and Hennepin Avenues, providing a detailed, albeit unethical, source of information on the last years of Skid Row before demolition.

1965

The Northwestern Life Building, informally known as the “Temple of Insurance,” is finished on the former site of Gateway Park, serving as the focal endpoint of the Nicollet Mall. Its designer, Miruno Yamasaki, later designed New York’s World Trade Center.

1960s

Construction contracts with Knutson Contracting fall through, leaving many properties intended for condominiums to serve as surface parking lots for decades.

2018

The Minneapolis 2040 plan zones most of Gateway for high-rise offices and apartments with a stress on mass transit accessibility.